«I am happy about every bottle of wine that I am allowed to open.»

She almost joined the Federal Police after completing secondary school, but things fortunately turned out differently! Sabrina Schmidt, born in 1992 in Hesse (close to Frankfurt), ended up discovering her passion for wine and champagne. The trained sommelier now helps Traube guests choose the right drink - this includes her own alcohol-free cocktail creations.

by Doris Büchel

Being probably the most extensive of its kind in Switzerland, the Traube’s (sparkling) wine list can admittedly be overwhelming at first glance. Those who enjoy wine or champagne but don’t have extensive knowledge may start feeling a little lost as they look through over 1,000 options. It therefore made sense to supplement the trained service team with a professional – a sommelier. Anyone who thinks that Sabrina Schmidt’s profession is limited to recommending a wine or opening the bottle correctly at the table is absolutely mistaken. After all, wine is not just passion, enjoyment and fun, but above all a fascinating and incredibly exciting line of work that requires a wealth of specialist knowledge.

DB: What exactly is comprised in a sommelier’s wine knowledge?
SS: How much time do you have? (laughs) I suggest we just start at the beginning ... The various topics are extremely multifaceted, which is what makes this job so fascinating. A sommelier has in-depth knowledge of wine regions, grape varieties and winemaking techniques – which we also call the «cellar technology». They are able to taste wine professionally and understand the proper techniques for serving wine and other drinks. This includes opening the bottles, decanting, pouring and selecting the right glasses – which are actually a huge topic in their own right. The job requires a high level of insight into human nature to be able to respond to the preferences and needs of guests. Of course, I always have to update my knowledge and keep up with current wine trends. Good communication skills are generally important to be able to work closely with the kitchen and service staff. Lifelong learning is definitely part of the job. Beyond that, I work in a service role just like the others. The days of sommeliers being responsible exclusively for wine are over.

Impressive! Were you aware of all the things the job entails when you decided to take this path?
Actually not at all, because I grew into this profession gradually. That means there wasn’t one particular turning point in my life when I decided to become a sommelier.

Could you take us with you on your journey?
In my family, food, drink and enjoyment were always big topics. I think this started with my grandmother, who grew a plethora of food in her garden to use in her kitchen. While I was finishing secondary school, I worked at the bar of a popular event venue, and when things didn’t work out with the Federal Police, one of my bosses at the time offered me the opportunity to train as a hotel manager with them. We had a small, fine wine list, but it completely overwhelmed me. Luckily I found a wine supplier who took me under her wing, and taught me some basic knowledge. My next job was in the Black Forest. That’s where I learned what it means to live near a wine region. It felt like everything revolved around food and drink. It was amazing! One day I heard about a young guy from Switzerland who had set up something cool in a castle. I looked it up online and saw that he was advertising for a job ...

The young guy was Andreas Caminada and the castle was Schloss Schauenstein, right?
Exactly! I started as a service worker and it took me what felt like 300 years to understand haute cuisine to some extent. Luckily, the sommelier lent a helping hand and was there to assist and advise me. When Caminada took a short break at Schauenstein in 2018, I took the opportunity to further my training in Germany to become a certified sommelier according to the Chamber of Industry and Commerce. So I grew into the subject of wine quite gradually.
My passion really started growing when I began visiting wineries and wine regions. Until then, I had only understood the theory, but to see how the winemakers and producers work in practice … that was and remains absolutely fascinating. Everything then suddenly came together and made sense.

What did you learn on site that you couldn’t learn in a classroom?
One example is how massively the living situation of the individual winemaker influences the quality of the wine – is it a very small family business or is it a huge wine estate that can also afford to experiment? How do winemakers deal with unpredictable weather? What does organic mean? How do the philosophies of the winemakers and producers differ? Are they doing everything they can to create a super cool label or do they just want to look good for the sake of marketing? Are they themselves among the grapevines every day? There are so many subtleties and seemingly small things that ultimately really matter.

What happened next?
I stayed in Schauenstein until 2019. I then actually wanted to go back to Germany, but I met my boyfriend, a chef, here. This gave rise to a new project – the gourmet restaurant Memories in Bad Ragaz – which we helped establish right from the start. I was able to learn an incredible amount, particularly from Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin, who is an outstanding sommelier. As a junior sommelier, I was responsible for managing the non-alcoholic drinks. I juiced, fermented, preserved ... it was all very exciting!

And now you’re at the Traube.
That’s right. I’ve been familiar with the Secli Weinwelt for a long time and encountered Ivan Secli time and again. At some point he said to me: «If you ever find yourself looking for a job, let me know.» One evening, when we happened to meet again at dinner in the Traube, we started talking. That’s how it happened (laughs). It’s a great feeling to know that you’re working with and for someone who fully backs the project, wants to get the best out of it and just do something very cool. The Traube wine list is truly extraordinary.

«When I open a very rare bottle, I think twice about which tool I should use.»

What makes the wine list so extraordinary for you?
Certainly the huge versatility and selection. What’s even better is that I can assist the guests and make suggestions. Another great thing is that very few restaurants celebrate sparkling wine with as much love as the Traube. This is probably down to the fact that Ivan and his crew themselves are huge champagne fans. In terms of sustainability, I also think it’s great that we only offer European wines on the wine list. Everything can be transported by land.

As a sommelier, do you sometimes get nervous when you bring a rare, particularly exclusive wine to the table?
Definitely! My adrenaline really gets pumping! Although I have to say – I’m happy about every bottle of wine that I’m entrusted to open, no matter what it costs. Ultimately, I want to get the best out of every wine. But yeah, when I open a very rare bottle, I think twice about which tool I should use (laughs).

To finish, I hope you don’t mind me asking: What can you tell us about yourself so we can get to know you a little better?
I live with my boyfriend in Chur, which means that even at home we’re all about enjoyment, food and drink (laughs). I also love cooking, so we often invite friends over. Most of the time we decide what we’re going to drink first, then we cook something to suit. Aside from that, I like strolling through the city – from my favourite store to my favourite café and back again. I’ve always been quite athletic and briefly even hoped that I’d be able to apply myself again to my old hobby, handball. However, it still doesn’t quite fit with my working hours. One thing at a time …

Thank you for this insight and the lovely conversation.

Taste and smell with purpose

A strong sense of taste is an absolute must for a sommelier. «You can learn a lot, especially through conscious appreciation,» says Sabrina Schmidt, Traube’s sommelier, who tastes around 5 to 10 wines every day.

Her tip: become aware of all the senses we’ve been given. How does a yellow apple taste, how about a green one? What does a banana smell like when it’s unripe in contrast to when it’s ripe? Experience the day with purpose; smell and taste and try to mentally save a new perception every day.